Laminate flooring installations have transformed do it yourself novices into property plastic surgery pro's, confidently adding value to homes all over the world. Home remodeling rookies are clamoring to get their itching hands on boxes of hardwood laminate flooring planks, knowing that the innovation behind this interior design idea will ensure a gratifying, fast-paced, glueless and groutless experience.

Click-together laminate hardwood flooring and tiling are the home improvement industry areas with the fastest growth rates. First-timers tackling a laminate flooring installation have loads of questions. The major manufacturers of flooring ranges such as Pergo Flooring, Armstrong Flooring, Mohawk Flooring, Bruce Flooring and similar products go out of their way to answer these in detail. What inspires many a home renovating junkie is that an average-sized floor can be ready to use and admire within a day - begging for compliments from somewhat green-around-the-gills neighbors...

The days of frustrating, messy, sticky, glued flooring planks are fading into the distance, as companies compete to come up with the most convenient and easiest to install flooring options. The simple click-'n-go designs of glueless laminate flooring ranges ensure a perfect finish plank after plank. You will have to go a long way to find an interior design idea that can be implemented faster, with more spectacular results! Now, let's get to the million dollar questions.

Am I Able To Do A Laminate Flooring Installation Over Existing Floors?

Absolutely. Quality laminate flooring is manufactured to be laid directly over almost any existing floor, from ceramic to vinyl, tile, or real wood. There is no need to waste time or resources ripping out an old floor. Two exceptions are real wood on concrete floors and carpeting - these need to be taken out before the installation. What is vitally important, however, is to ensure that the sub-floor is perfectly smooth and even before you begin to saw and click. Carefully sand down all bumpy areas or peaked joints. Fill up any irregular spots. If possible, install cabinets or cupboards before you give the laminate flooring installation project a go.

Do I Need To Leave A Gap Between My Laminate Flooring Installation And The Wall?

Glueless Laminate Flooring is designed to be a floating floor product, meaning that it isn't permanently fixed to the sub-floor area. These flooring ranges constantly react to changes in humidity and temperatures by contracting and expanding. It is therefore vital to leave at least a 1/4" expansion space between the flooring planks and all adjacent walls or cupboards. Getting this right will prevent unsightly buckling floors down the line. Don't worry about the gaps being an eye-sore. The Laminate Flooring industry manufactures a wide range of decorative moldings you can use to hide these spaces after installation. These are color coordinated to match the flooring and virtually guarantee a professional finish. Use the recommended spacers to keep your distances even - never trust your eye. A wider expansion space will be recommended if you are tackling a very large floor area.

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Can I Do Anything About The Hollow Sound Of Footsteps On Laminate Flooring?

The echoing sounds that often follow your footsteps is the result of the floating floor concept. This is why a quality underlayment is so important. Rather pay a few dollars extra to get an effective sound dampening padding. Another advantage is that a thicker underlayment gives a more comfortable feel underfoot, especially where you will be standing for long periods, such as in the kitchen. Pergo's SilentStep foam or Soundbloc foam, and Mohawk Silentgard are excellent options. Many manufacturers now pre-attach the underlayment to the flooring planks. This is a time-saving and convenient measure. Just remember that you will probably need to remove this layer if you want to do a laminate flooring installation on stairs. The thickness of the flooring you install is another factor that plays a role in sound dampening.

You will also need a vapor barrier, usually a resin polyethylene film. Examples of this are the Pergo Moisturbloc vapor barrier and Mohawk Moisturegard. This layer protects your flooring from swelling and buckling due to moisture. If the sub-floor is wood, this barrier film isn't used.

Do I Need To Acclimate Laminate Flooring Before The Installation?

Some manufacturers recommend that you acclimate your laminate flooring planks by storing the unopened cartons on their flat side in the room where the flooring will be installed. This period should usually last between 49 and 96 hours, so take this into account while you do your planning. Don't ignore this instruction - you don't want an ugly, buckling flooring fiasco! Displaying that bit of patience can mean the difference between gaping joints and neatly clicked together flooring for years to come.

Is It Safe To Do A Laminate Flooring Installation In A Bathroom Or Kitchen?

The surface of a quality laminate flooring product is usually highly water resistant, so the planks perform beautifully in high humidity areas such as bathrooms and kitchens. To prevent buckling and warping in these areas, the expansion spaces need to be sealed with a product such as Pergo Sealant or a similar mildew-resistant silicone sealant before installing the trim or molding. The same should be done where the planks were cut to make room for cupboards or a dishwasher. It may also be wise to seal the joints by using glue. Your supplier will be able to advise you about the most satisfactory installation process. Keep in mind that, in spite of its water resistance, a laminate flooring installation and standing water will never be friends. If there is a spill, wipe it dry immediately.

Is It Safe To Do A Laminate Flooring Installation On Stairs?

Provided that you follow installation instructions to the letter, laminate flooring may usually be extended to the stairs. Steps are professionally finished with a Stair Nosing. The nosing is adhered with a quality construction adhesive and finishing screws. Although this flooring product has been designed to be a floating range, it must be glued to stairs. This is the only circumstance where adhesive is used to fix the flooring to the sub-floor.

How Do I Ensure A Professional Finish When Installing Laminate Flooring?

The brilliant guys in the laminate flooring industry have come up with a huge selection of color-coordinated transition moldings. You can finish your do it yourself home remodeling project in style and with an elegant touch. Trim doorways with T-Moldings, while end moldings are used along sliding doors and around tubs and basins. If you need to go from a raised laminate flooring area to a lower hard surface such as vinyl, choose a hard surface reducer.

Oops! My Laminate Flooring Installation Has A Puncture! What Now?

Don't despair! The folks at laminate flooring companies realize that mishaps are inevitable in active households where kids and pets rule. They therefore produce magical products such as Pergo Finishing Putty. Simply neaten the edges of the chipped area with a small knife, make sure the area is clean, and fill the hole with putty. Use a spatula to give the repair job a neat finish. Wipe away the excess, and you're done. Plank replacements are also possible if a more major repair is needed. Always put away a few spare planks for this purpose, as the range may be out of stock when you need it most.

A laminate flooring installation is likely to transform a beloved family home into a wrinkle-less, stylish and sprightly young lady. Isn't it about time to let those tattered carpets go?

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• Why our carpets get soiled fairly quickly

So you think that installing a carpet is so easy? It could be, but then there are a lot of things that you have to consider, just like carpet cleaning. In fact, it is highly recommended that you let professional carpet cleaners and installers do the dirty work for you, as they have a better understanding of your flooring. Further, they already have the necessary materials and equipments on hand to set up and clean your carpet faster and more accurately.

Yet despite the presence of home carpet cleaners and professional carpet installers, some people still prefer to install or clean their carpet themselves because it is less costly. There are some procedures that you can indeed follow when opting for a do-it-yourself carpet installation and you can begin with the following:

1. Move the furniture. If the area where you’re going to lay your carpet still has some furniture and fixture left, it’s time you move them somewhere else for a while. They can be obstructions, thus you can not expect even the most professional installers to accomplish the carpet installation with ease. You can have the same people do that for you, but there’s a huge chance that it’s going to cost you some extra money. The best way is to seek help from a friend or a family member. Carpet cleaning companies also offer carpet installation services.

2. Clean your carpet. Whether you decide to hire Atlanta carpet cleaner or do the carpet cleaning yourself, truth is you have to clean both floor and carpet before you have the carpet installed. This is especially true if the carpet flooring you bought is an old stock or pre-loved item. Cleaning the floors will get rid of the existing dust and dirt that can move into your carpet.

You can leave the task to carpet cleaning companies. They have the resources needed, as well as the expertise. You just need to make sure that you’re working with the best carpet cleaners. They must have certification from IIR, experience, and even proper education.

3. Read the manual. Oftentimes the carpet installers already know what to do with the flooring, but it’s going to do both of you good if you read the manual first before he starts working. You can have better understanding on the procedures and can pinpoint lapses along the way. Your professional installer, on the other hand, will know what to do exactly. Keep in mind that if something goes wrong with the installation because of this neglect, you may no longer be covered by your warranty. Reading the manuals will also help you learn a thing or two about home Atlanta carpet cleaning.

4. Make sure that carpet is not overly stretched. Your installation professional may say that it’s okay, but the truth is it’s not. It is wise to check the smoothness because if not done the right way, it will grow wrinkles and ripples immediately or in a few hours or days after the installation. You may have to call his services again. Carpet cleaning companies who are also into carpet installation are offering carpet maintenance services as well.

5. Be there. Some of the tips above imply that you have to be around when the carpet is being installed. Your presence is greatly important so that the installer will not feel so overconfident of his work, and you can ensure that he’s really doing what he’s paid for. It is also a good idea to observe his work and processes so that whenever you purchase and install a new carpet, you can try working on it yourself. Carpet installers and Atlanta carpet cleaners are typically very patient workers so you will definitely be getting answers to your questions – don’t hesitate to ask!

6. Remove the doors. Some carpets are thick, and can prevent the doors from swinging fully. What you can do is to simply remove the door until you are done with the carpet installation. Should the carpet be indeed too thick, you can trim the bottom portion of the door to make it fit perfectly. This should also prevent further problems when the maintenance personnel or the carpet cleaners are called on for their services.

7. Get rid of any loose fiber. Perhaps during the installation process, the fibers of the carpet accidentally become loose and are pulled out. Rather than pulling them more in the effort to clean it, you can just simply cut it. Pulling the fibers can also cause them to unravel more, which in turn will render more damage to what has already been done. You should also remember this tip especially when performing your carpet cleaning duties.

8. Have proper ventilation. Even new carpets can leave some strong smell. So that it goes away quickly, open the windows and doors. You can also turn the air-conditioning system on. Professional carpet cleaners will advise that all windows and doors are opened after the installation.

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Here are useful tips learned during more than 40 years of installing epoxy urethane floor seals and coatings on Fortune 500 company concrete floors, as well as in basements, garages, and decks. These tips can help you avoid mistakes that can limit the life of your floor.

There are three broad steps to doing your floor project: planning and preparation, repairing, and applying the coating. This article is the third in a three part series, and deals with applying the epoxy paint to the floor.

General guidelines for applying an epoxy coating to your floor:

Do no harm.
Investing in preparation produces the most years of service.
Let the chemicals and equipment do the work.
What can go wrong, will go wrong, unless you think ahead.
Technique is what separates mortals from Rembrandts.
An once of prevention is worth a pound of cure.

Now let's get started with tips on how to coat your floor with an epoxy or urethane floor paint.

 

Plan the job.

Good floor prep is key to a long lasting floor.

Take a break.

Mix 200 strokes.

Easy work makes for a better job

No one is perfect

Don’t worry about tricks of gravity

A rag may not save you

Technique, technique, technique.

This is an application pattern I like to teach and can serve you very well. Tip your roller and remove it quickly before it fills with liquid. Apply a quick wet line 3 or 4 feet back from where you had stopped coating. Now fill in the area between that wet line and your previous rolled area. As you overlap the new wet part, . The strong two-part coatings you are applying are not the water-based latexes that wipe easily off with a rag or a little water. If you get the coating on something you did not want to coat, it may be less harmful to leave it than to smear it all over the place. You may be better off chipping it off once it dries a little, or coating over it with paint that matches what you got it on.
. As you put your first coat down, you will find things, bugs, sand, water, lint, and the like. What was in the air eventually will be on the floor. Remember this is a two-coat process. Yes, remove what you can as you go but those small bits of debris may be easier to remove when you screen between coats and sweep before your second coat.
. I do floors lots of floors and still have misses, marks, and errors. I just can’t rely on myself to be perfect all the time. That’s why two coats are always planned.
. Tape your cutting brush to a broom handle, use a wheeled bucket for 18-inch rollers, and several pails if using 9-inch rollers, and wear a mask if using solvent based products. Save your back and let yourself move quickly. Moving fast is more fun but it also sets a rhythm, which keeps a repetitive job interesting enough to maintain focus.
Two-part flooring products can produce floors that click when you first walk over them. That clicking often means that the two parts were not mixed well. Clicking is sucking dust off your feet and could cause both lifting and discoloration problems down the road. Yes, the floor will usually stop clicking and harden, but it may come from aging rather than a strong chemical change. Mixing is not a science, but you must be able to count to 200.
I always take a break after floor preparation to let the floor dry. Putting down a coating can be smooth and uniform or splotchy with misses. A little rest before the artistic part of the job will improve the quality of your application process.
For this article, we will assume that you have done a good job of doing you’re preparation and repair work already.
Two-part coatings harden in the can once mixed, so it is best to have everything you need at the start of your job. A useful first step is to go to a website like www.concrete-floor-coatings.com for a free cost analysis report that also lists everything you need to do your job including step-by-step instructions.
you re-wet your roller
and as you overlap the previous area your roller is re-moistened. When you get to the end, roll back over the same area a second time. This re-rolling will spread any lines that may have come off your roller edges as you move across the floor.

Push the roller on, not off.

I always flip my roller so that I move towards the open end. This little step pushes the roller onto the frame not off it. Each time the roller moves on the frame you have the danger of opening a gap at the end that fills the roller with coating as you dip. Soon you are getting lines as the liquid drips out of the ends of the roller. And soon the roller is sliding back and forth on your frame because the interior is now very slippery.

Don’t hit the roller.

If your roller cover starts to slide off the frame, don’t tap the roller, tap the frame. If you tap the roller, you often get dents in the roller that show up as marks as you roll. If you tap the frame end of the roller, it will slide on without changing its shape.

There is dirt in that pail.

I can’t say how often I have compromised the quality of a job by pouring my last amount of coating out of the pail onto the floor as I exit. The problem is every piece of sand, lint, or bug that had stuck to the roller is resting at the bottom of the pail. Right where I have wanted the floor to look its best (at the entrance or exit), I have poured out all my debris on the floor so that I can use that last 3-oz. of coating. Don’t do it! You will be sorry.

Screen the floor after your primer coat repairs are made

. By screening your floor with a 60 grit screen after any additional repairs are made, you can usually shave your floor flat. This screening removes bubbles, lint, sand, bugs, leaves, and fillers that are above the desired surface.

Sweep your floor with a kitchen type broom before coating.

Push brooms just don’t pick up enough of the small grains. A kitchen broom takes a little longer but does a better job.

Vacuum the corners

. It is just too hard to get grains of sand and other small particles out of corners and along baseboards or out of holes unless you use a vacuum.

• Epoxy Floor Paint Projects: Tips and Tricks That Save Time and Money
• Madera Floors. Fairfax, Va. Hardwood Floor Specialists. Installation, Sanding And Refinishing

Madera Floors provides professional quality wood flooring services including installation, sanding, refinishing, repairs, maintenance, and custom design. At Madera, we only use the highest quality materials/finishes and are always up to date on technological advancements in the wood floor industry. We target contractors, designers, corporate clients, and homeowners in the Northern VA, MD and D.C. areas. Madera's goal is to meet our client's budget and timeline while exceeding expectations, thus resulting in repeat business.

Madera Floors specializes in custom finishing, installations and material sourcing for all of your hardwood flooring needs. As flooring contractors, we are always abreast of new techniques and materials in the industry, which allows us to grow while remaining environmentally friendly. As a certified CMP installer we can also perform self-leveling concrete installations. Every project represents our organization; hence our great strides to achieve perfection on each individual project.

Hardwood floors are an investment that will last for a long time with the proper installation and care. There are different modes of installation for engineered wood strips, solid wood strips, and parquet. With all modes of installation moisture testing is imperative to ensure proper installation. Installation can be a painstaking process but we take pride in leaving your home or business looking as beautiful as we found it. Our expert technicians have seen every situation and are proficient in the three different types of installation for hardwood flooring.

Nail Down/Staple Installation In this method we nail down or staple solid or engineered wood strips to the sub-flooring (usually either plywood or plank wood). The floor is done with random length strips. A few strips are placed down and arranged prior to fastening to ensure proper placement and tautness.Glue Down Installation In this method we glue down engineered wood strips or parquet directly to the sub-floor. In these cases the subfloor is usually concrete, so we pay extra attention to moisture.

With glue down installations, it is important to consider any kind of allergies and sensitivities to smell. We use an acrylic based glue which is more mild than some of the other options. Glue down installations can be walked on the next day and furniture can also be moved in.

Floating Installation In this method we glue together the tongue and groove of every plank and the floor floats over a foam cushioned padding. If the flooring has a locking system we can lock the pieces together without glue. This can be used with either laminate or engineered wood floor, but either way the flooring is pre-finished. Not all engineered surfaces can be floated. Floating installation can also be placed over sub-flooring of questionable quality unlike the other two modes. Also, floating floors are a great option if you have multiple layers of flooring and do not want to remove them all. With floating installation the wear layer is important to consider as the thicker the layer the more times it can be refinished. Generally, laminate flooring gives a hollow feeling underfoot with this mode of installation. Remember that floating floors expand and contract as a unit because the pieces are fused together. Allow for as much expansion area as possible.

Refinishing and sanding your hardwood floors is necessary to preserve their quality and beauty. Any refinishing is done solely to enhance the woods natural color and protect it from the elements. The best time to sand and refinish your hardwood floors is when you move into a new house or apartment as all of the furniture, rugs, etc. need to be removed from the area during the process. Proper refinishing should last about 10 years. However, high traffic rooms will need to be done more often.

Pre-finished Hardwood Floors These are the new main stream products in hardwood flooring. They can be acrylic impregnated, engineered, or solid. They have a tough factory finish, which is the main reason for its popularity. They are also extremely easy to install and eliminate the need for messy sanding. Most pre-finished floors done within the last ten years are urethane finished. Test this by placing a couple drops of water on an obscure area. If the area turns white after 15 minutes, you have a waxed finish. Older floors are likely to have shellac or varnish finishes. Unfortunately these do not work well with the newer urethane finishes and must be completely removed if you want a urethane finish. There is also likely to be some amount of aluminum oxide in the newer prefinished floors.

 Unfinished Hardwood This type of flooring comes in solid and engineered, and both must be job site finished. They come in varying lengths and widths. Sanding and finishing can take anywhere from a few days to a week depending on size, stain, and number of top finish coats. Generally the finishes are oil or water based. Our first priority is to protect the beauty of your home so whether you have finished or unfinished floors, we section off other areas and furniture to prevent sanding dust from spreading throughout your home. Our expert technicians also use dust containment systems to limit the amount of dust in the air. And with refinishing, it is important to have as little air flow as possible in the area as airborne particles can become embedded into the newly applied finish. Something as simple as foot traffic or turning on the air conditioner/heating system can kick up dust. So it is better to allow more time to dry to avoid problem areas in your floors.

Many things can happen to a floor over the years. Termites, cable holes, leaky roofs, sink overflows, cats, dogs and reconfigured spaces can leave holes or very odd-looking stains in your hardwood. All is not lost!

Boards can be replaced in such a way that no one will be able to tell that new wood has been added to the floors. When replacing boards, we take care to lace the new boards in with the old ones, so there is not a square or rectangle shape where the boards have been replaced.Other precautions are taken to match up the wood as best as possible. As wood ages, it darkens. This is why we purchase reclaimed wood in various sizes and species. If aged wood is not available for your floor, we take care to stain the boards that we are replacing to match the color of your existing floor as close as possible.

Custom Wood Floors are a medium of specialty floor coverings that includes, but not limited to these Types of Custom Wood Floors: Accents, Borders, Domestic Species, Exotic Species, Feature Strip, Inlays, Marquetry, Mixed Media, Medallions & Crest, Painted or stenciled, Parquet, Parquetry, Plank, Reclaimed & Recovered,Distressed, Specialty Products, Stained-Tinted or Colors Developed during the middle ages in Europe, elaborate designs, borders, inlays & medallions were crafted for significant buildings such as castles, & monasteries. Today these wood flooring styles are reflected in the modern day manufacturing and can be enhanced with something as simple as a strip border around the perimeter of the room or as ornate as a coat of arms in a foyer or a great room. Using exotic woods from around the world, these custom designs & patterns can add to and become the center focal point of any room. Giving each room a Custom-one-of-a-kind wood floor. Custom designs can give a homeowner a "one-of-a-kind" floor and is a wonderful way to put your personality and individual character in a home. The choices of pattern, design, exotic woods sources and an artistic flare can provide a limitless number of possibilities.

Floors with oil and urethane-type finishes are extremely durable. With just minimal care your floor will look beautiful for years to come. The key to preserving your floor is protecting its finish. Hardwood floors require minimal care, but it is important that you provide regular care.

Visit us online at: www.maderafloors.com

Visit our blog at: www.maderafloors.blogspot.com

Thanks

Madera Floors. Fairfax, VA.

 

 

 

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